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		<title>LoveTheGarden Discussion Forums RSS Feed</title>
		<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php</link>
		<description>LoveTheGarden Discussion Forums RSS Feed</description>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Moss Control</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3024/Re_Moss_Control#Post3024</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> dermotp:<br />
			I always had a nice small front garden until this year,at the end of last year i scarified my garden because it had a lot of moss, i did not give it any autumn feed(which now i think was a big mistake)as now i have a very sad looking lawn with one big brown area and this brownie area is all through the lawn in smaller patches,i think it is some kind of moss,i treated the lawn in the middle of march with evergreen complete and again last monday i have taken some photo,s of same and would like your help in ge]]>
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			<pubDate>Fri, 15 Apr 2011 14:47:58 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Big weed problem !</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3020/Re_Big_weed_problem#Post3020</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Vicky:<br />
			Hi Paul, 

For tough perennial weeds I would advise using Roundup XL Tough &amp; Deep Root WeedKiller. This is a ready to use formulation and works quickly to kill off tough perennial weeds.
If you prefer to use a concentrate formulation then there is Roundup Treestump &amp; Root Killer, this has on pack instructions for use agains tough, perennial weeds..... Even Japanese Knotweed!!

Potatoes are indeed a good crop to grow, they will help keep weeds down and indeed improve soil condition. As you have not adde]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 15:55:35 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Ants</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3019/Re_Ants#Post3019</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Paul P:<br />
			Hi all.

If the ant colony is quickly decimated by the Ant Stop treatment, it is unlikley that it will survive. The queen and replacement queen cells must be attended to at all times, with out the workers they would not survive.

PP]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 15:43:44 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Tomorite praise</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3018/Re_Tomorite_praise#Post3018</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Paul P:<br />
			I could not agree more, I have used Tomorite for many years on all my ornamental flowering containers and baskets with brilliant results. Masses of flowers with out to much green growth. 

I had the best yield of tomatoes and peppers this summer with the warm weather and Tomorite feed - the flavour was intense.

Tip for growing glass house crops - start feed the young plants once a week  with Miracle-Gro Soluble Plant Food to establish a strong stem and leaf structure. When the crop starts to flower, sw]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 14 Feb 2011 15:34:35 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Black patches</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3008/Re_Black_patches#Post3008</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Lawn Ranger:<br />
			Matthew,

I think we are talking about the effects of ferrous sulphate here and not fungi!

LR]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Sat, 12 Feb 2011 13:33:32 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Lawn Moss control</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3005/Re_Lawn_Moss_control#Post3005</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> MatthewWilliam:<br />
			The actual scene is that moss does not have the ability to kill grass. But it begins to grow in areas where grass is unhealthy and, once it has grown, it prevents grass plants from growing in the areas where it is present. This can make your lawn look unhealthy and discolored. So finally it ruined all the area.

]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Fri, 11 Feb 2011 06:17:18 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Rose pruning and feeding</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3002/Re_Rose_pruning_and_feeding#Post3002</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Paul P:<br />
			Advise please, I have a number of rose beds, climbers and ramblers and I am not sure when and how to cary out the spring pruning, which I believe is different for the types of roses ?

When is it best to start feeding and at what interval should the fertiliser be reapplied ? Any suggestions on the products to use ?

Thanks, Paul]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 08 Feb 2011 14:26:21 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Moss control</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3000/Re_Moss_control#Post3000</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> joann patterson:<br />
			hi, as a small business and sole trader in lawn care/gardening etc im constantly battling with mossy lawns, some are in a very bad state and the owners are calling me to ask what they can do, usually by the time i get called out the moss has got a good hold and is choking the life out of the lawn. last year we had a very wet summer, with floods and damage all over england, as a result lots of people with top condition lawns have found moss a problem, but with patience and determination it can be put right b]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Sat, 05 Feb 2011 19:30:05 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Nectarine pest</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2999/Re_Nectarine_pest#Post2999</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> MatthewWilliam:<br />
			Nectarines that cannot be consumed or processed immediately should be stored in an area with temperatures of 32 degrees F and high-humidity. Nectarines can be used in the same way as peaches, and may be considered as substitutes for peaches. The only difference between peaches and nectarines is the lack of fuzz on the nectarine skin. Nectarines tend to be smaller and more aromatic than peaches and have more red color on the fruit surface.]]>
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			<pubDate>Mon, 31 Jan 2011 06:27:43 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: fugus and bug on fig tree</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2994/Re_fugus_and_bug_on_fig_tree#Post2994</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Paul P:<br />
			Hi Bux24

If you can tell us what the symptoms are of the pest &amp; disease on the fig, we may be able to establish exactly what it is &amp; how to deal with it in the longer term.

I look foward to receiving the details.

Paul P]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Fri, 28 Jan 2011 14:10:35 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Lawn covered in moss</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2993/Re_Lawn_covered_in_moss#Post2993</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Paul P:<br />
			Hi Parrot. Do exactly what Vicky suggested. Grass will always struggle to grow in heavy shade and under trees that take most of the water &amp; food from the soil.

Once a year spike &amp; top dress with EverGreen Lawn Soil that will help condition the soil to enable it to hold onto more moisture close to the surface were the grass will need it. During long periods of dry weather when the soil can become very dry, if possible give these areas a good soaking with water once a week to keep the grass alive. Over sow]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Fri, 28 Jan 2011 14:00:39 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Couch grass in my lawn</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2992/Re_Couch_grass_in_my_lawn#Post2992</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> MatthewWilliam:<br />
			Yes I have discussed about this sort of grass from so many of garden lovers. This is fairly common and is rarely planted deliberately in home gardens. It just seems to appear. It is a reliable grower but is coarse and has no use in a lawn at all. The grass cover will be greatly reduced and other weeds will have room to creep in.


]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Thu, 27 Jan 2011 05:57:32 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Evergreen complete in a sprayer</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2985/Re_Evergreen_complete_in_a_spr#Post2985</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> funkyfred:<br />
			Hi oldmansimmo, As Vicky said i wouldn`t apply evergreen complete using a sprayer  . I used to apply a combination of sulphate of iron and to sulphate of ammonia through a knapsack sprayer at the start of the growing season to kill off the moss and boost the growth of your grass . This was using a 20 litre knapsack , and you have to disolve the powders in warm water before application . trouble is that the products available on the public market are not as strong so may not have the desired effect .I would ]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Sat, 15 Jan 2011 18:06:22 UTC</pubDate>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Re: stupid lawn mower question</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2974/Re_stupid_lawn_mower_question#Post2974</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> funkyfred:<br />
			Hi All , My advice on sharpening cylinder mowers is to apply grinding paste to the cutting edge on each blade , tighten the blade down a bit then turn the cylinder in reverse . Continue turning the cylinder for a couple of minutes tightening down if required . When the cutting edges are clean again wash all the paste off with your garden hose until the cylinder and the bottom blade are clean . Saves you money sharpening the blades yourself . I do this to my ransomes cylinder mower before the start of the ye]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 12 Jan 2011 01:05:32 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Extending a lawn</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2973/Re_Extending_a_lawn#Post2973</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> funkyfred:<br />
			Hi Robbo , I work as a greenkeeper , my advice is if you don`t want any more problems with weeds you should spray the soil area with roundup ultra 3000 . This would kill all the weeds right to the roots , some weeds are more resiliant to weedkiller and might require a second dose . When you see the weeds dying back rake the soil over to a fine tilth . The weedkiller is not residual so will only kill what it touches ie. weeds . You should then be able to lay the area with established turf or seed it . If you]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jan 2011 01:15:47 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: lawn marks</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2972/Re_lawn_marks#Post2972</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> funkyfred:<br />
			hi John , As Grant said don` be too worried as the black patches will be dead moss . If you want a faster solution you should spike the patches with a garden fork then overseed them with a mixture of loam and grass  seed chosing the right seed type for the area you are repairing .
When you feed the lawn again in the spring don`t force the grass to early , I do this by applying the Autumn feed which gives it just the right amount of feeding before applying your spring/summer fertiliser around June/July / Au]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Jan 2011 00:57:04 UTC</pubDate>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Re: How important garden trees for our home &amp;amp; Environment!</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2970/Re_How_important_garden_trees_#Post2970</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Vicky:<br />
			Well....

It depends how much you want to spend. If you go to specialist growers and wholesalers you can find Ilex, Euonymus, Photina, Buxus etc in that size.  The bigger.... the more you pay. 

I would suggest Phontina Red Robin, this will give good colour and if not pruned, flowers. I would suggest you have a look at some local wholesalers. Photina is not that slow a grower so would be cheaper than a Buxus. The female Ilex such as Golden King will also be a nice focal point. 

Happy hunting :)]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jan 2011 15:52:04 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: An Indestructible Weed</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2968/Re_An_Indestructible_Weed#Post2968</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Vicky:<br />
			Hi wlb, 

For Speedwell..... apply Verdone Extra..... then 8 weeks later..... Evergreen Feed &amp; Weed Liquid ( must be the Liquid not the Granular) 6-8 weeks later if any speedwell has survived re-treat with Evergreen Feed &amp; Weed Liquid. This should solve the problem.

All the best ]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 10 Jan 2011 12:11:33 UTC</pubDate>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Re: Roundup around trees</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2963/Re_Roundup_around_trees#Post2963</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Vicky:<br />
			Roundup is a Systemic weedkiller, not a contact weed killer. Therefore it gets absorbed through the leaves, or other green plant tissue, and then circulated via the sap down to the roots of the weeds, killing the roots. Contact weed killers destroy green plant cells on contact, therefore do not get circulated down to the roots.

To effectively kill mature trees there is Roundup Tree Stump &amp; Root Killer.

http://www.lovethegarden.com/product-details/roundup-tree-stump-root-killer

All the best]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Fri, 07 Jan 2011 09:24:28 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: verdone dilution</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2962/Re_verdone_dilution#Post2962</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> MatthewWilliam:<br />
			As far as precautions go, it is not safe to use around pets and children so keep them away from the lawn until the product has dried after applying it.  As always, if you have a pond is extremely careful when using it. One last word of warning, do not use any grass cuttings as mulch unless they have been well composted before-hand, as advised on pack.]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jan 2011 11:28:53 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Glyphogan weed killer.</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2960/Re_Glyphogan_weed_killer#Post2960</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> MatthewWilliam:<br />
			It is a concentrated water soluble liquid which mixes readily with water and can be applied by knapsack sprayer, a weed - wiper applicator or micron weed stick for the control or destruction of all weeds including nettles, thistles, tree stumps, brambles, deep rooted and woody weeds and also Japanese knotweed. ]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Thu, 06 Jan 2011 11:13:24 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Lawn Care Service Business</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2958/Re_Lawn_Care_Service_Business#Post2958</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> MatthewWilliam:<br />
			I previously visit a website that is running a landscaping and lawn care business. I think you can take knowledge from there.]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Mon, 03 Jan 2011 09:21:53 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Weeds and Clover in lawn</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2946/Re_Weeds_and_Clover_in_lawn#Post2946</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> MatthewWilliam:<br />
			The most effective method of controlling clovers is to maintain a dense and healthy turf area. Often weeds can be easily kept out if the Ph and nutrients levels are optimum.]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 07 Dec 2010 12:56:52 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Couch grass</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2945/Re_Couch_grass#Post2945</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> MatthewWilliam:<br />
			Couch grass is a robustly growing perennial plant that often grows to a height of 32 inches (80 cm). This species of grass has an elongated and crawling tubular root, while the leaves are thin. The plant bears green flowers that are lined up in two rows of straight barbs.]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 07 Dec 2010 12:52:31 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Speedwell lawn weed</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2944/Re_Speedwell_lawn_weed#Post2944</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> MatthewWilliam:<br />
			Speedwell is a nasty lawn weed that can completely take over your grass in a few years unless measures are taken to identify and eliminate it. Also known as Veronica filiformis, speedwell weed is a perennial creeping weed and once firmly established in your lawn is difficult to control.
]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 07 Dec 2010 12:49:44 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Tomatoes in Giant Tomorite planters.</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2937/Re_Tomatoes_in_Giant_Tomorite_#Post2937</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Parrot:<br />
			Nice tomatoes! I love tomatoes, never tried growing them though. Could be something to try next year!]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Dec 2010 12:45:13 UTC</pubDate>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Re: Unhappy chilli plant</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2927/Re_Unhappy_chilli_plant#Post2927</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Parrot:<br />
			You're best keeping chili plants somewhere inside warm unless it's really warm outside. At this time of year your chili plants will probably be coming to an end anyway.]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 09 Nov 2010 11:44:23 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: TumbleWeed Glyphosate 500 ml Liquid Concentrate Weedkiller</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2926/Re_TumbleWeed_Glyphosate_500_m#Post2926</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Lawn Ranger:<br />
			Tumbleweed contains glyphosate which becomes inactive on contact with the soil, so you needn't have replaced all the soil]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Tue, 02 Nov 2010 16:02:40 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Autumn Feed... which one - Evergreen or Scotts?</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2909/Re_Autumn_Feed_which_one_Everg#Post2909</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> Kapil Dev:<br />
			I applied Evergreen Autumn at the start of October, and have been very pleased with the result - only a couple of small patches where I slightly over did it with the spreader but otherwise a nice even lush green now.  

I am wondering whether I should give the lawn another final feed before winter, say towards the end of November?  Does anyone give two applications of Evergreen Autumn, or would that be too much / unnecessary?]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Sat, 23 Oct 2010 21:48:05 UTC</pubDate>
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		<item>
			<title>Re: Correct order for scarifying, feeding and repairing the lawn?</title>
			<link>http://www.lovethegarden.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2902/Re_Correct_order_for_scarifyin#Post2902</link>
			<description>
			<![CDATA[<b>Posted by</b> ghdfans2010:<br />
			You can apply Scotts Lawn Builder through autumn up to Feb next year, but if you are due snow then I would get the feed down and wait until spring next year for over seeding. ]]>
			</description>
			<pubDate>Wed, 20 Oct 2010 08:06:01 UTC</pubDate>
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