Pruning & training

This method is used for apple, cherry, pear, pecan and plum trees.

It involves having a single trunk (leader) in the centre of the tree and the branches growing out from it, creating an overall shape similar to a Christmas tree.

• The aim is to have branches evenly spaced around and up the tree with a maximum of three or four branches per tier.
• Always leave adequate room for light and air movement before creating another set up buds to become the next tier, and so on all the way to the top. A space of around 40-50cm between tiers is ideal.
• The lowest tier should be the longest and the highest the shortest.
• When pruning, leave the central leader if the tree has more growing to do. However, if it has reached its final height, prune the tip back by about two thirds.
• Lateral branches should be pruned back to around six to eight buds on each branch, paying special attention to maintaining the overall shape.

This is used for peach, nectarine and plum trees.

This involves removing the central leader, creating an open centre where the branches fan out toresemble the shape of a large bowl or vase.

• These trees have about four or five major limbs that radiate out from the trunk about 50-70cm above the ground.
• The main branches are pruned to around 60-90cm each winter, to an outward facing bud.

Involves training the fruit tree (usually an apple or pear) as a single stem, either vertically or at a 45 degree angle.

This technique is ideal in gardens with limited space, although it does severely reduce your harvest. Here’s a very basic guide to help get you started:

1. Establish a trellis or wire to help train your tree (location is still important).
2. Find a suitable tree with a strong central stem.
3. Plant your tree as per usual, but position the base of the tree at the base of your wire.
4. Prune any side growth to 2-3 nodes.
5. Prune annually or when necessary to control growth.

To find out more about planting, pruning and training cordons fruit trees, click here