How To Kill Weeds in Flower Beds | Love The Garden

Weeds in Flower Beds

Vicky Page's picture
By Vicky Page, Garden Expert
Weeds in flower beds

The manual removal of weeds is the old-fashioned way of weeding. While it may supply some people with necessary exercise, most of us consider it the biggest back-breaking chore in gardening.

Blistered hands and aching backs are common complaints after digging or hoeing.

Sometimes it is not only the gardener who is damaged. Digging and hoeing can damage the roots of wanted plants, reducing their vigour and encouraging the formation of suckers.

Few of us have enough time to do the jobs we enjoy, so finding a way of saving time on weeding is a big benefit. It is possible to treat large areas quickly and with little effort. Apart from the selfish benefit of saving time and effort, there are cultural benefits to using modern weedkillers.

When digging out weeds or hoeing, the gardener will bring thousands of weed seeds to the surface where they will find the right conditions to germinate. This is not the case with chemical control which does not disturb the soil.

Breaking up the roots of perennial weeds, like couch, ground elder and bindweed, leaves behind small pieces that can quickly grow into a new plant.


1. Mulch Your Flower Bed

Keeping weeds under control isn’t always a question of digging or spraying. A physical barrier (called a mulch) will also help to prevent weed seeds from germinating. This light-excluding layer on the soil surface can be of gravel, bark chippings or easily obtained organic matter.

Gravel is suitable for alpine beds or the surface of sink gardens but is expensive for large areas. Black polythene, on the other hand, is cheap but unsightly. The best product for mulching is bark chippings or cocoa shells. They suppress the growth of weeds and at the same time deter the movement of slugs and snails. Above all they allow rainwater through to plant roots but reduce surface evaporation.

2. Use A Gel Weedkiller Such As Roundup Gel 

Using just one hand, and at the click of a button, you can release the precise amount of gel needed to target the weeds without risk to other nearby plants. So for crowded borders where you want to protect your beautiful plants, this product is the perfect choice. The gel formulation sticks to the weed leaf and stays there, so there’s no dripping or running off onto the soil or surrounding plants. Simply click the button and apply all the gel that appears across the weeds leaves, then in the following days you will start to see the weed die off - Simple!

1 click per annual weed, 2 clicks per perennial weed.

3. Weed On A Dry & Sunny Day

In order to get the best peformance from any weedkiller, we would always advise to apply the product when the weather is fair and not to apply in windy conditions.  Do not apply  if rain is expected within 6 hours of application as this could reduce the efficacy of the product.

4. Leave For Up To 7 Days 

Roundup Optima+ and Weedol RootKill Plus are systemic weedkillers. Systemic weedkillers are designed for tough as well as all round weedkilling. They kill from the inside out - right down to the deepest root so weeds can’t re-grow. Leave weeds 7 days before digging or soil cultivation, for the weedkiller to move to the root. Best used in spring and summer. Concentrates can be applied either through a watering can or a pressure sprayer (check pack details for application methods). Biodegradable. Children and pets need not be excluded from treated areas once the product has dried.

Weedkillers are best sprayed in the evening when it’s cooler. This gives maximum time for the chemical to be absorbed and ensure good results. 

As a general rule of thumb, with systemic weedkillers - The faster the weed is growing, the faster it will die after application.


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